After a long winter of feasting on rutabagas and storage apples, I know I’m not alone in welcoming asparagus, snap peas, and all the tender greens of spring to the table. But for me, the main object of my anticipation is the oft-neglected leek.

Leeks are part of the allium family of vegetables, which also includes chives, onions, garlic, scallions, and shallots. You’ll likely see most of these used as aromatic enhancement, adding flavor to a dish without being the main focus. Since leeks taste fantastic on their own, though, I like to treat them as a vegetable in their own right: braised and topped with mustard vinaigrette, blanched and grilled, or in vichyssoise, the iconic French leek-and-potato soup.

Leeks look like jumbo fat scallions. When you cut into a leek, you’ll notice it’s comprised of many layers, much like an onion. Then you’ll notice the dirt. The layers make great hiding places for dirt, and you’ll need to clean it out. I halve leeks lengthwise and then hold them under running water, separating the layers with my fingers and judiciously wiping and rinsing away the crud. If the recipe calls for sliced leeks (you want to use the white and light-green parts only, trim off that hairy looking end and the dark green tops), you could slice the leeks first and put them in a bowl of water. Swish the leeks around with your hand, loosening any dirt and grit. Pick up the leeks and put them in a bowl or colander; repeat the process with fresh water if the leeks are still gritty. Please do not pour the contents of the bowl into a colander, or all the loose dirt will land right back on the leeks.

The flavor of leeks tastes sweet and mild, lacking the bite often present in onions. Their texture is especially tender after a short braise, as in the recipe below. I enjoy smothering the chicken with the buttery leek sauce, but you can also use a slotted spoon and serve the leeks on the side. My kids seem averse to the leeks, but they still enjoy the chicken with some of the braising liquid. Good thing, since that’s dinner!